THIS PAGE IS BEING EDITED AND THE INFORMATION HERE WILL BE UPDATED SOON.
I often mention that I thin my paints, even the ones made specifically for the airbrush, before I use them. I have indicated that I like my paints really thin for a number of reasons:
But as I got to thinking more about the subject of thinning paints, I realized that there are actually two types of thinning when it comes to readying paint for the airbrush. They are:
When you thin to reduce pigment load (and increase the transparency of your paint), you are not always reducing viscosity. Huh?
- Fewer clogs
- I can use lower pressure and therefore get closer to the model for tiny details
- Reduces/avoids graininess
- Mistakes are more easily corrected
But as I got to thinking more about the subject of thinning paints, I realized that there are actually two types of thinning when it comes to readying paint for the airbrush. They are:
- Reduce Pigment Load/Increase Transparency
- Reduce Viscosity
When you thin to reduce pigment load (and increase the transparency of your paint), you are not always reducing viscosity. Huh?
Hmmmm.....while that is OK, that is NOT what I really wanted to do. What I really want to do is reduce the VISCOSITY of the paints so that it flows better.
That means in order to do that, I have to use something other than the recommended Transparent Extender (notice that it is called Extender and not Thinning Medium).
What can I use? Well, there is water, of course. When I do use water to thin the viscosity (and, as a result, decrease the pigment load) of my paint, I use distilled water. By using distilled water, I know I'm not mixing my paints with anything BUT water (no chemicals or minerals that might be in regular tap or even bottled water that could affect adhesion).
But when you thin with water, you're not only decreasing the viscosity and the pigment load, you are also reducing the overall integrity of the paint. Too much water and your paint will have a very precarious hold on your model (if it sticks at all and doesn't simply run off the horse).
That means in order to do that, I have to use something other than the recommended Transparent Extender (notice that it is called Extender and not Thinning Medium).
What can I use? Well, there is water, of course. When I do use water to thin the viscosity (and, as a result, decrease the pigment load) of my paint, I use distilled water. By using distilled water, I know I'm not mixing my paints with anything BUT water (no chemicals or minerals that might be in regular tap or even bottled water that could affect adhesion).
But when you thin with water, you're not only decreasing the viscosity and the pigment load, you are also reducing the overall integrity of the paint. Too much water and your paint will have a very precarious hold on your model (if it sticks at all and doesn't simply run off the horse).
One alternative to water is Golden Airbrush Medium. The medium is thicker than water but thinner in viscosity than airbrush paints or airbrush extender. Even though there is an FAQ on the Golden website that states, "You do not want to add Airbrush Medium to the Airbrush Paints, as you will have an overload of retarders, resulting in a slow drying film", the bottle itself states, "Designed for modifying the Golden Fluid Acrylics or Airbrush Colors for airbrush use. Effectively decreases clogging during spraying. Reduces tack and increases dry film hardness, allowing for easier frisket applications."
Of course, my bottle is old and the new bottle doesn't mention anything about Airbrush Colors. Despite the warnings that using Airbrush Medium with Airbrush Colors will give me a slow drying film, I've used Golden Airbrush Medium with my airbrush paints and have not had a problem with drying time.
Of course, my bottle is old and the new bottle doesn't mention anything about Airbrush Colors. Despite the warnings that using Airbrush Medium with Airbrush Colors will give me a slow drying film, I've used Golden Airbrush Medium with my airbrush paints and have not had a problem with drying time.
Liquitex Airbrush Medium isn't as thick as Golden's Transparent Extender or Golden's Airbrush Medium but I found it doesn't play nice with the products I used to seal my models (Krylon products, Dullcote). The model would eventually turn shiny and very sticky. Therefore, I no longer use Liquitex Airbrush Medium. That's too bad because I really liked it
Createx recently came out with a new line of paints called Wicked Colors. When I first was introduced to airbrush paints, it was the Createx line I started with. The color selection wasn't too bad but oh my, did they dry TACKY. Yes, I could "fix" that with matte sprays, but meanwhile, I had to handle a sticky model. The Auto Air line wasn't too bad sticky-wise, but overall I wasn't all that thrilled with Createx paints. I got rid of them.
But when the new line came out, I was intrigued, especially by their Wicked Detail Colors, which are supposed to dry with a flat finish and are designed for airbrushes with smaller needle/nozzle combinations (like my Iwata HP-A's). Of course, I had to try them. And, of course, you should thin them with the medium designed for the Wicked Colors line, so I ordered some of that, too.
Createx recently came out with a new line of paints called Wicked Colors. When I first was introduced to airbrush paints, it was the Createx line I started with. The color selection wasn't too bad but oh my, did they dry TACKY. Yes, I could "fix" that with matte sprays, but meanwhile, I had to handle a sticky model. The Auto Air line wasn't too bad sticky-wise, but overall I wasn't all that thrilled with Createx paints. I got rid of them.
But when the new line came out, I was intrigued, especially by their Wicked Detail Colors, which are supposed to dry with a flat finish and are designed for airbrushes with smaller needle/nozzle combinations (like my Iwata HP-A's). Of course, I had to try them. And, of course, you should thin them with the medium designed for the Wicked Colors line, so I ordered some of that, too.
While the paints are not my favorite (colors separate and need almost constant remixing, which is a real PITA while airbrushing), I was super pleased to discover that Wicked W100 Reducer is a lot like water! Not only is it clear like water, the viscosity is just like (or darn close to) water.
Being the brave (stupid?) person I am, I had no qualms about using Wicked W100 Reducer to thin other brands of paints. Then I thought I maybe should research using it with other paint brands safely and found this information on the Dick Blick website: "Wicked W100 Reducer works well with any waterbased paint for improved flow and atomization when airbrushing." Phew! I sure hope they are right because I've been using Wicked W100 Reducer, along with water, to get my airbrush paints to the thin viscosity I desire.
There are airbrush artists that use alcohol and/or Windex (or similar) products to thin their paints. WHY? I don't get that at all. Why would you use products that make the paint dry faster (and therefore encourage more clogging and tip dry)? Airbrush paint manufacturers purposely add retarders to their emulsions (and mediums) so the paint stays wet long enough to get out of the airbrush and onto the surface you are painting. Airbrushing can be challenging enough without adding stuff to the paint that actually encourages it to wreak havoc in your airbrush.
So far I've only discussed thinning airbrush paints. But what about thinning other paints, such as Golden Fluid Acrylics or Golden Soft Body Acrylics? Or tubed acrylics? Or any other thick acrylics?
I personally don't use those through my airbrush (except for some colors of the Golden Fluid Acrylics), but I would start to thin them with Golden Airbrush Medium (NOT the Transparent Extender, which is made specifically for the Golden Airbrush Colors) and then further thin them with water and/or Createx Wicked Reducer until you get the consistency you like.
Being the brave (stupid?) person I am, I had no qualms about using Wicked W100 Reducer to thin other brands of paints. Then I thought I maybe should research using it with other paint brands safely and found this information on the Dick Blick website: "Wicked W100 Reducer works well with any waterbased paint for improved flow and atomization when airbrushing." Phew! I sure hope they are right because I've been using Wicked W100 Reducer, along with water, to get my airbrush paints to the thin viscosity I desire.
There are airbrush artists that use alcohol and/or Windex (or similar) products to thin their paints. WHY? I don't get that at all. Why would you use products that make the paint dry faster (and therefore encourage more clogging and tip dry)? Airbrush paint manufacturers purposely add retarders to their emulsions (and mediums) so the paint stays wet long enough to get out of the airbrush and onto the surface you are painting. Airbrushing can be challenging enough without adding stuff to the paint that actually encourages it to wreak havoc in your airbrush.
So far I've only discussed thinning airbrush paints. But what about thinning other paints, such as Golden Fluid Acrylics or Golden Soft Body Acrylics? Or tubed acrylics? Or any other thick acrylics?
I personally don't use those through my airbrush (except for some colors of the Golden Fluid Acrylics), but I would start to thin them with Golden Airbrush Medium (NOT the Transparent Extender, which is made specifically for the Golden Airbrush Colors) and then further thin them with water and/or Createx Wicked Reducer until you get the consistency you like.
